• About Us and this machine
    • Where did we come from?
  • MRR ranch news
  • Restorations
    • Gallery
      • GMC Motorcoach Projects
    • Conversations
      • Why do this?
      • Is the GMC Motorhome a Good Choice for Young Families? 
      • What’s it Worth?
      • How to get a restoration going
    • Mechanical Work
      • Mechanical Review
      • Mechanical Pitfalls
    • Interior work
    • Exterior work
  • Parts. <<<<<< Sorry, we are no longer in the parts sales business
    • Fire Suppression
    • Electrical Parts
    • Mechanical parts
      • Frame & Suspension Parts
        • Quad Bag System
      • Engine & Drivetrain Parts
        • Custom Build Crate Motorhome Motors (455 & 403)
      • Brake parts
    • Interior Parts
      • Dash Parts
      • Seating
    • Exterior Parts
      • Windshield Replacement
  • MOTORHOME REHAB RANCH
    • How to Tow?
    • Mechanical Tips
    • Exterior Tips
    • Interior Tips
    • Electrical Systems
  • Coaches for Sale
  • Video Blog
  • Stories
  • Stories from the Road
  • Non GMC Stories

Cooperative Motor Works

Vintage RV & Motorhome restorations - "The GMC Coop"

You are here: Home / The Daily Pose / GMC Motorhome: More on Ruby

November 12, 2017

GMC Motorhome: More on Ruby

I was told there’s a thread on Facebook about how to install one of Mac’s Dashes……… doing that now on Ruby, if you wondered how to do this…. follow these posts when you see “Ruby” in my headers and Ruby’s dash is being installed slowly and carefully…… follow what I do here.  Please remember wit’s human nature to watch how someone does something then you say “I can do that better and faster like this……..  my suggestion to you is do any project you do exactly as someoene shows you… there may be variables you may not find until you are done.  Do it once as someone says THEN take shortcuts and your own ideas on the next one…. Oh, that’s right… you only have one dash to install!  Make a decision how you will do that… and good luck…..

So on Ruby’s Mac Daddy dash, dismantle and prewiring happens in that order.  Go back to past “Ruby” posts to see how to start.

OK, here we go back in…… previously I dismantled the dash removing the original cluster and “donut” to get to the original harness.  Now, neatness matters, remove all the original wiring you will not be reusing both in the dash AND on the rest of the engine harness  Ruby dash 2  Ruby dash 10  Aff that stuff out of the way now the new Mac harnesses can be wired into the original wiring with new circuits bunded to run  Ruby dash build 1  Wired like this, each cluster of the new dash has a coded harness Ruby dash build 5    So with each now wired, you can connect everything like this and literally have the complete dash operate  Ruby dash build 3  outside the dash laying even in your lap.  Now THAT’s something you can work on!  Now prewired we move on to some other prewiring issues.

Top Clearance lights are NOT all created equal!  You can find LED clones of our original “Cats eye” top clearance lights.  LED light are LED lights … right?  WRONG!  Ir’s the quality of the LED and how they are assembled.  I have seen them all…… let me tell you why I KNOW you didn’t use the ones I do….. how? 

Price is noe the determining factor…. everyone wants to try and make you think that way.  Lets talk about things you CAN see other than the sales pitch……  First here is the light pattern  Here is looking at our top clearance light from the top  Ruby clearance lights 8  It has a pile of super bright LED’s facing up.  Looks cool but you would have to see these from the second floor of a building…. they are on the top.  LED lights shoot their light in a straight line.  So what does our clearance light look from the ground looking up??  If those were all the LED’s in the light it would give a glow which many do.  But ours have 2 rows of super bright LED lights facing forward Ruby clearance lights 7 Very cool and very different!  So you say, I want some of these… you call and I tell you they are $16 each.  You say back…”crap, I can buy those for $9 each on line.  Not so bunky…. I know no one is using these because from the factory there is only 1 hot wire coming out of the molded and sealed lens assembly!  They are designed to ground the light with 1 of the 2 mounting screws.  That would be fine if we were mounting our clearance lights to metal…. they are mounted to SMC plastic… no ground!  As you can see, they come with some really nice thick gaskets and totally sealed  with ss screws and seal washersRuby clearance lights 4 so for me, it’s a no brainer to grind into the epoxy sealant on it’s bottom with a Dremel tool to access the ground ring on the screw opening  Ruby clearance lights 5

and using my old bench solder station (I DID go to solder school back then) connect a ground wire so the lights will ground with a ground connection  Ruby clearance lights 3

then test each one on the bench…. do that 10 times… 5 front and 5 rear lights Ruby clearance lights 2  Now we can install top clearance lights before the front and rear caps go in.  Why $16 each?  Labor to rewire and test each light?  How much is my custom time worth? Oh and I do work pretty cheap so are these the best deal?  Quality LED’s, light pattern and a modified superior part…. I rest me case.  We do not stock these but I WILL make you up some if you want these, give me a call.  You can’t buy THASE on Amazon with free shipping!  Want something nice, it won’t be the cheapest…….. custom parts are something that makes a quality restoration stand out……

and one more with that…. take a look at our side marker LED lights.  4 super bright LED’s in a tasteful oval sealed module… you’ll see those when they get installed.

On to more in process, we need to refinish the brittle interior ABS plastic panels we will reuse.  The front side panels are effected too Ruby headliner 6 These will go through the same process you will see here.  We’ve been talking about the front and rear caps.  In Ruby (#41 prototype) had a hand made rear interior cap Ruby headliner 1  Not useable, I pulled a production rear ABS plastic cap from another coach.. a 1973 model.  Ruby headliner 13  The front original ABS production cap in the coach was not in very good condition.  UV light has brittled out the ABS plastic, cracks formed in some very visible areas.  We were thinking to use this other custom looking front cap  Ruby headliner 8  Hey, are WE not MEN……. lets fix that thing!  The first step in restoring these panels is first get off any glues and stuff stuck to them.  In the case the rear cap was a blast and I think we had a little fun with getting the liquid nails off of it…. that process yielded a smooth finished original plastic cap  Ruby headliner 11 There are discolorations, screw holes, gouges, cracks and sanding  and scraping marks covering it after the cleaning process.  We will first repair the cracks and reinforce the brittle plastic panel overall.  How to do that? 

First build a mold and secure down the plastic panel back to it’s original shape  Ruby headliner 21  This way, the cracks close up and you have a shape the panel used to be so you can reinforce it.  Being made of ABS plastic, we mix a slurry from ABS/PVC glue fixing it with “tiger hair” and fiberglass mat fabric.  This will stick to the ABS original plastic Ruby headliner 20  We know this is an original 1973 front cap (the original one out of #41) because the first year had a loose fitted sheet of insulation laying on top of the cap.  You can see the remnants of that insulation…… will be reinsulated much better……

All of these plastic interior parts will be clean and repaired before getting retextured… stay tuned for that……

Guess that’s enough for 1 day….. what can I say I enjoy showing you these thing… thanks for your visit and support.

One thing that I want you to take away from yesterdays pose…. very important understand and something I will be telling anyone that will listen…..DO NOT DRIVE YOUR COACH OVER 60MPH OF LONG LENGTHS OF TIME….. YOU ARE RISKING THINGS BAD TO HAPPEN!  hEY, IT’S 40 YEARS OLD…. BE NICE!.

Liked it? Take a second to support jimbounds on Patreon!

Article by jimbounds / The Daily Pose

Comments

  1. Joel Schwark says

    November 13, 2017 at 6:40 PM

    Nothing over 60 mph? Even on the interstate hwy? If you still maintain the original 3.07 final drive, could you extend that to 70 on cruise? (no major hills of course)

Tags

Airstream Countertop Demolition Door Electrical Engine Exterior FiTech Generator Honda Intake Interior Kubota LED MacDaddy Mechanical Molds Parts Redman Ruby Senden Summit Texas Tux

Video blog

Support Cooperative Motor Works on Patreon!

Daily Pose Blog

  • Just checking to see if the MRR backline is hot February 20, 2023
  • (Updated below) I can see from the hit counter you guys are making it over to “Motorhome Rehab Ranch” on Patreon February 11, 2023
  • ok, I got an IPhone today February 1, 2023
  • Again, the main Patreon feed is up…. January 30, 2023
  • The main feed from the Ranch is back up January 29, 2023

GMC Land Speed Record

Search This Website

Hours & Info

6101 Anno Ave
Orlando, FL 32809
(407) 857-5777
9am - 5pm

Social

  • View cooperativemotorworks’s profile on Facebook
  • View gmccoopwebsite’s profile on Pinterest

Top Posts & Pages

  • GMC Motorhome: Windshields
  • GMC Motorhome, 455 motor run in....... close
  • GMC Motorhome: Transmissions...it's gonna be a long 1
  • GMC Motorhome, why do you need a 4 bag rear suspension?
  • GMC Motorhome, finally drove the diesel!
  • GMC Motorhome, GMC diesel coach you can live with
  • Honda EV series water cooled Generators
  • GMC Motorhome: Suprise.... EL II air compressor replacement and more
  • GMC Motorhome: Fuel injectionvs. carberators
  • GMC Motorhome: alternators, we need something better!

Copyright © 2023 · Education Pro Theme on Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

 

Loading Comments...