…….
a side view of our new radiator system. An electric fan box on the back of the off shelf plastic side can, aluminum full length radiator..
…not under the Crossmember its safer. Oil and trans coolers included in the unit. After prototyping the system we expect costs will not be much different than what we’ve been spending for the old conventional system…..stay tuned for pricing. There ARE new technologies and concepts that aid in increasing our reliability……a really good thing.
I’ll be back……stay tuned
Next, why I don’t use “press-lock” air line fittings…..see ya then
Ok, the above updated air control valves were all fitted with the easy to connect “press lock fitting. Slipping a brass Cleve into the air line shuving the air line into the fitting it “locks” in……and doesn’t leak………….for now! And that my problem with them, my mission working with these coaches focuses on eliminating points of failure adding backups whenever possible.
This is the air control out of MY coach….was put in @ 10 years ago and it’s been working great. This year the cold opened up 1/2 of the fitting causing “ghosts-in-the-machine”. So it’s come full circle…..now I’m living with things we used to call SOP.
If you have any of these press lock fitting in your air system or even still some of the God awful black plastic original fittings, replace them with Parker brand “68P” series fittings.
as you can see, the internal brass barrol is built into the fitting. The black plastic Ferrell there sticking out of the head cap literally binds to the plastic air line as the fitting is tightened making a seriously air tight connection that can be taken apart and reconnected with no degradation of the seal. We use these on all air line connections. Every press lock and every black plastic fitting replacement adds reliability to your air ride system…….so it!
We have a new toy
a steam pressure washer…V2 powered….a real Binford model 8000!
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headed to the recyclers for pizza cash. Hey Cal….thats you ole God Awful A&E awning bar….should pay for a topping……..
Wow, I gotta get used to a sight like this! A truck bed full of original steel fuel tanks……i used to cherish those……..the new aluminum tanks after several updates is now one of the more reliable in house only upgrades. Enhanced vinting, baffling and a sump cage has these 4″ single aluminum tanks a winner. Shows what can be accomplished when every one works together………
And the beat goes on, I’ve got 10 minutes before the 8am meeting…..i made it! See ya tomorrow 
Jim,
I have a 1976 GMC Eleganza II 260 Motorhome. How many body frame supports are needed to up grade the body frame rail support. Do you have to remove the floor panels to make the repairs? What does it cost for a set? I don’t know if there is a body frame rail sag problem. I just know you have observed sag problems in most if not all GMC motorhomes
The motorhome was involved in a right front impact to the bumper. The shock absorber seems to be fine. The frame mount is bent for the shock . There appears to be no other damage. The RV repair shop looked at the damage and said it was not very bad and could be fixed. I don’t know if the interior damage to the dash and inner front cap was because of body sag or the shock from the impact. Golby Motors thinks the dash could be plastic welded. The section of the dash between the instrument panel and the glove box maybe available from Frank Jenkins GMC Parts. I have an email making inquiries about the dash part. Considering the age of the plastic and the damage would it be best replaced if possible or suitable repairs suffice ?
Ron
I’d need to see the dash itself but trimming out the fiberglass reproductions is challenging trying to make them finish off nice
Send me a pic of the dash. Good luck with your work
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