As it’s been explained to me… the daily titles are looked at by web crawlers and will key to someone say looking for how to seal top rails. Hey, that’s a neat feature and if we’ve snagged you with our internet hook welcome. I have to tell you though that I always spew out a bit of color before the white paper information squirts out so if you’re new to me dragging your ear… buckle up Speed Racer, this can get bumpy… I can’t give you any information unless I give it all so here we go…
There has been threads as of late on Facebook about water leaks on new purchase coaches. My first thought to that is “and your point?” There’s something you must understand about the body design of the GMC motorhome….. it is the only flexible body on the road…. there are loose joints both vertical and horizontal which allow the body to flex as it goes down the road. The foam “insulation” is more of a stiffener and sound deadener for the “oilcan” effect the large sheets of aluminum would have in this flexing process while underway. It’s all tied together to make a durable, flexible body. The main seam is the point where the roof panel meets the side panel, look at your coach and you will see the cover rail of that joint. It was known that this seam would have a fair amount of movement so the sealing system was butyl tape all along the seam with the cover panel you see to protect the sticky tape. This is why it does little good to try and run a bead of goopage on that cover rail, bunky the seal is under it!
This is why today absolute SOP (standard operating procedure) is to remove that rail, dig out the dead goopenpucky then paint the coach with this rail off, paint the rail off then reseal the joint with some kick butt Germany flexible sealant and reinstall that rail. Even we used to have this as an option on an exterior refinish… no more gentlemen and to drive this point home, we are pulling the rails off of Tim’s coach to seal them the way we should have 8 years ago. Like I said back then it was not something we pushed hard. Guys, it just has to be done. Over the years, Tim’s coach started a nagging leak, wasn;t there after the paint job but it did come up later. My expectation is that if this procedure isn;t done when you get a paint job you will sooner or later have to do it so that’s why it’s SOP now… and for you new owners.. just close your eyes and write the check because at some point your interior will get wet, grow mold andwell, there you are!
Give me a couple of minutes to process the pics on what Kevin is up to in his cocoon doing Tim’s rails.
Be right back…
Some good pics… first lemme show you the reason I’ve been late posting lately.. see I have to give “Wegie” 30 minutes after our older cat Danzig eats his breakfast, has his treat and he goes back outside Just like any of my motorhome kids, it’s going to be hard to let her go. Pets and motorhomes do that to ya…
So this morning what’s going on over at Kevin’s Cocoon? He’s out under the awning outside working on Tim’s rails You are seeing him tap out each hole where screws secure the rail. The rail is really hard aluminum with a machine thread hole for the steel torx head screws all down the length of the rail. What tool is that? Nuthin fancy just a really good tap Use a cheap one and you will be drilling all new holes! BTW, in taking this rail off, the more screws you break the more you will have to drill then tap. You cannot use sheet metal screws, water will follow the threads and leak… ask me how I know…. So it’s morning and Tim, being the self respecting Brit that he is is off for a morning bike ride Tim is with us for a holiday/ visit to his coach. Where does he stay when he comes? Well in his coach of course The rear door on his Transmode coach allows him access even with Kevin’s scaffold blocking the entry door. His multiuse floorplan has the removable bed at the back.. when he wants it there. A very utilitarian coach Tim will soon be a full timer in his coach in the UK.
The rail reseling process starts with getting the screws out and the rail off. You must be careful not to bend the rail. Next it’s got to have the 30+ years of goopenpucky cleaned off . If you have ever pulled a rail, you know it doesn’t come off clean like this but it must be this clean to go back on and it’s gotta be that clean all the way down to allow the groove to line up with the slit on the rail Tim will be sealed up today then Kevin will get back on the crack body repair from the front clip seperation Stay tuned for more…
Yesterday we had John (aka Spacely) and Lucy stop by for a big confab Oh and their daughter who was past ready to get to Disney. They are hitting Fort Wilderness… the holy grail of power camping for the unique Disney experience you get at their RV park. Yes the rates are high but just remember where you are. I think they have expelled all insects from the Fort Wilderness grounds… last time I went there you could actually sit outside at dusk! Hey.. I’m just sayn….
So check this out… only 1 computer on my desk now and it’s all due to my computer guru brain trust here in Brian K., John & Lucy along with help from James of Wanderlustestate and John D. there in the white shirt out there in the field Thanks guys and thanks to all who make this dream for me come true… doing all this with these coaches is truly a win/win for us all. Have a great day, call if I can help and go out and give your coach a big hug.. remember it’s family!
George Rudawsky says
Thanks for the info on the rails. Definitely agree, though it is a royal pain to remove the rails in a driveway setting (but it has to be done). Do you replace the ‘goop’ with butyl sealing tape, then use the German stuff, or just use the German stuff? Obviously, keeping the joint sealed and pliable are major goals on this project.
These rail can be pesky getting off. I used a wide blade stiff putty knife and plastic window shims from Menards. Gently start the big putty knife then tap the tapered shims to separate the rail. Easypeasy