Fresh roller cam 455 or 403 Engine
Looking for a really good motor for your coach? We have been there and if we all learn through experiences and I gotta tell ya this motor looks really good! Go to Crate Motors
Insulated super-dooper carb to fuel pump line
This “better” part helps stop vapor lock tied with the carb fuel line getting too hot. A braided stainless covered teflon hose (PTFE) with a pyrojacket (firesleeve) that resists temps in access of 500 deg. continuous and up to 3000 deg. for 20 min. . This quality hose fits well without twisting and routes the fuel away from the hot thermostat housing. $47 is cheap to keep fuel going where it’s supposed too!
Go here to learn about installation: carburetor line installation
Intake manifold & carburetor renovation
You betcha this is an important part for your GMC. The 455 & 403 intake manifolds are having the problem of cracks forming between the secondary ports 
when this crack reaches the floor of the interior exhaust gasses from the cross over port contaminate the vacuum and performance then goes out the window. If you have low vacuum, rough idle, poor performance under load or intermittent performance issues, this may be your trouble. As carburetors age, they need more than good cleaning and new gaskets– they need to be remanufactured. 
Send us your carb., we will have it brought back to like new condition. Go to Carb & Intake for more information.
Transmission governor gear
When your 30+ year old governor gear does this, you now only have 1st & reverse gears. The transmission does not know to shift, btw– your speedometer stops working too that tells you this may have occurred. So much rides on this plastic “break away” part to do it’s job that it’s a no brainer to renew it or at least have an extra one with you in your parts carry box if it goes out. 
, your old one may be working fine— how much do you want to roll that dice? 
Not hard to put in and a life saver, this part only costs $14— get one!
Outer CV joint “Sticky boot” and “double bands”
Sounds like something off the menu of a donut shop, right? Well, with the demise of the blue “super boot”, there had to be something better than that original style black boot with the useless band tabs that always seem to slip off. Oh yes, we have had the same troubles as all of you have had trying to keep the outer CV boots clamped and sealed. It gets really depressing replacing snapped boots and bands– and here is our answer! This outer CV “sticky” boot is made of a material that has a super bite surface that gives the best chance to keep the band from slipping plus they have a lip completely around the boot with a deep band depression, a real breath of fresh air for those that have had the band actually pop off while it is being tightened. These outer boots are $12.50 each which is cheap for such a better mouse trap.
See, its really not the mechanics fault that the boots that are available today slip off, its the lousey part. Can’t tell you how many people have called looking for this part. We bought all of the “super boots” as insurance trying to keep our work from coming back, the super boot has a band slot the same size as this new sticky boot which kept it in place. Now we have a new even better boot for you and for our techs too.
This boot along with our new 7 mm stainless steel double wrapped band makes the best attempt and providing the best possible boot system for the outer CV boots. The bands are $2 each. These bands used to be available but the manufacturer has discontinued it so to my knowledge they are all but impossible to find. 
This makes it cost you $17.50 per side for the best possible CV protection, thinking what that joint does for you thats cheap! You will need a ratchet band clamp tool but this too is the best way to tighten up the band, most shops will have this tool but if you want one, the tool costs $26. 
Call if you need more information.
BTW: Whenever you remove a split shaft from your coach, the 6 inner CV bolts are a “one use bolt” and must be replaced. These extremely important bolts are torqued to 75fp and “stretch” themselves into place. You will not be able to retorque them to 75fp again. I used to think that “wives tale” was just that until I had a drive shaft fall out shortly after we installed it– I know now by first person experiences how important these grade 8 or better bolts actually are. We have them so if you do not have new bolts, please do yourself a great favor and order 6 bolts for each shaft you install.