No, I’m not gpoing out to burn my draft card! I’m talking about the strong breeze you feel when you take out the ash tray at the front seats… No, it’s not part of the venting system…. the front body of your coach has separated at the floor on the sides, the body is pootching out! Go look along the side of your coach just above the front fenders. The body was glued to the floor of the frame. Look here inside the passenger front hood Not looking at the battery switching… one for erach house and chassis batteries but also a top switch combiner to tie all batteries together for charging or to put power anywhere you want it….. oops, a tangent… sorry…. we were talking about that dead bleack tar stuff GM used to seal the body to the firewall and floor. In a phrase… it’s dead…. That’s partly why the side of your coach pootches out. The other reason is another story so lets stay on track…. While driving, the underhood area is a whirlwind of pressurized air looking to find a way it. And brother that crack between the firewall/ floor and the body goes right up into the plastic sidewall panels at the driver & passenger seats! What to do?
Like I said, there is another problem of the body bulge but we’re not getting into that right now… for now, lets stop that air from coming in. We’re doing this on this Palm Beach nice survivor so come on and watch:\
Step 1: Yep, jack the front wheels off the ground and take off the wheels Oh yeah and take the inner wheel liner out. There’s a set of 3/8″ hex screws and 1 10mm screw unto the upper frame and the liner is out. Don’t be surprised to find missing screws, broken tabs, etc…… just warnen ya. Now we use this really neat German made Bond-n-seal adhesive sealant. That’s important… the body moves and already broken away there will be movement. If the sealant you use will not allow as much movement as needed it will break it’s adhesion. It must have a high elastomer rating and superior adhesion to hold on. I did this one in white so you can see where it goes . Digging as much as the old stuff as you can, reapply this stuff…. cost is $24 a tube, I would use 2 for both sides. Run the bead all the way across the top of the wheel opening… you’ll see the crack. Oh… and both sides are the same.
So go out there and stop that air from getting in…..